Thursday, 17 August 2017
New Palomino White from Mahara – and new Bodega
The Gómez Lucas brothers, Miguel and José, have produced their first white wine, made from Palomino grown on albariza and arena soils in Chiclana. It is called Amorro and just over 5,000 bottles will be available. The name comes from the expression “beber a morro” meaning drinking from the bottle and was chosen as the wine is so easy to drink, and the word "amor" is in there too. Their new bodega is in the industrial estate of Polvorines de Fadricas in San Fernando which was once the site of the navy’s gunpowder stores. We can look forward to more interesting wines from this bodega in the future, as they now have the space to experiment.
Universo Santi Restaurant Set to Open Late September
This unique project is located in the Altillo, the former house of Manuel María González Ángel, and will be staffed exclusively by people with some form of disability. Employees have been receiving training in wine from González Byass. Jerez city council owns the building while the project is financed by various charitable foundations and supported by top chefs and sommeliers and is a not-for-profit enterprise, which means that haute cuisine can be offered at sensible prices. It deserves to be a great success as everyone wins – diners and the disabled.
Sherry Sales Surge at Majestic
The UK wine retail chain Majestic Wine has reported huge growth in sales of Sherry with an overall increase of 46% over the last 12 months and an amazing 71% for the dry, more up-market styles. The firm attributes this to “hipsters” who may use the wine for tapas or mixing and also buy craft ales and gins, proving that Sherry is finally moving on from the “drink for grannies” image. Meanwhile, the International Wine & Spirits Record is predicting growth in Sherry sales of 18% over the coming five years. іOjalá! as we say here (let’s hope so!)
Wednesday, 16 August 2017
It is now a week and a half since Barbadillo kicked off the harvest and a few million kilos have already been picked. As from today picking will become generalised in the inland vineyards, while those near the coast will need to wait a further few days till the right sugar levels are achieved. A light Levante wind is forecast for the weekend and with sugar levels well over 12° Beaumé it is better to pick soon than take the risk of volume(and therefore financial) losses by waiting for even higher levels of sugar, as the price paid for the grapes is based on weight, not quality.
The biggest problem would be if any rain were to fall, which would make harvesting difficult in muddy conditions, and if the humidity were followed by hot dry weather there would be a risk of botrytis, though nobody thinks this is likely. The grape price has crept up to 0.36€/kilo which is good, but Sherry grapes are still among the cheapest around. If you are here during the harvest there is no better way to see it than with www.rutasiete.es who offers personalised visits.
Tuesday, 15 August 2017
International Sherry Week 2017 will run from the 6th – 12th November, and is now in its IV edition. It gets bigger every year as more people discover that Sherry is such a versatile wine that it is ideal for any kind of event and really brings people together. Now is the time to start organising your event and http://www.sherry.wine/sherryweek will give it free promotion. It could be any sort of event; a tasting at home or at a venue, online perhaps; a food and Sherry matching session; Sherry cocktails; in-store tastings at wine shops; comparative tastings - blind tastings even, it only matters that you enjoy some Sherry with your friends - and that’s not hard to do! Salud!
Monday, 14 August 2017
Almost completely opaque blacky walnut brown fading to intense amber at the rim, viscous.
Very fruity, mainly dried fruit of course, with raisins, prunes, dates and figs to the fore along with toffee, carob and a slight toasted note from the oak. There are traces of coffee and cinnamon too.
Full on the palate with lots of texture and those delicious dried fruit flavours. It is unctuously sweet with a hint of honey yet the oak and coffee notes and a perfect touch of very slightly citric acidity provide an element of balance. Fantastic length.
This excellent PX is, at some 8-10 years old, the younger version of the superb 15+ year old PX Cardenal Cisneros. Despite its comparative youth it has considerable class and density and is good enough to feature in the firm's Reservas Especiales range and scored 90 from the Guía Peñín and 91 from Robert Parker.
14.00 ex bodega
Sunday, 13 August 2017
Times have changed. Hundreds of people - mostly women, as the men were working in construction during the better years – used to form teams of pickers and arrived at the vineyards at dawn armed with knives or clippers. It was a long, hard job with pauses only to eat. Now the machines have taken over and there is barely a trace of the harvesting teams of old, who are now only needed in vineyards with difficult access for the machines or which contain old vines which have not been planted in a suitable way for machine harvesting. This requires the rows of vines to be spaced to allow the passage of the machine and the vines to be trained on trellises at a certain height. The timetable has been reversed with the machines starting at ten at night and finishing at seven in the morning.
When darkness falls and while most people are sleeping the machines get to work, equipped with powerful headlights, cameras and various sensors so every detail of the ground is visible. Working at night has several advantages. It is better for the machines and their drivers to work at 22° than at 37° and the lower nocturnal temperature delays oxidation of the grapes or even premature fermentation. In the early days of machine harvesting much damage was caused to the vines which shortened their lifespan, but technology has moved on and machines are now more efficient and much faster than people.
|Harvesting with Jerez in the background (foto:Manuel Aranda/diariodejerez)|
Grupo Estévez is using a total of nine machines to cover their nearly 800 hectares of vineyard. Each one is different and adjusted for different vineyards but they function in much the same way. On the upper part there are two hoppers which collect the grapes, while on the lower part vibrating devices shake the grapes off the vine and collect them on a tray fitted with an elevator which takes them to the hoppers. There are powerful fans which blow away any dust, twigs or leaves. The process is fast and efficient but with all the shaking there can be a little loss of juice, and this calls for equally efficient transport to get the grapes to the bodega as quickly as possible. 80% of the company’s grapes are now harvested by machine.
Experts agree that no two harvests are the same; all sorts of factors affect the quality of the grapes, be they related to the climate, weather or environmental conditions. This year they look very good, and if they look good they usually are good. This year Estévez is predicting a 20-25% higher yield than last year, and of better quality. Eduardo Ojeda, the firm’s technical director reckons that the grapes are at about 12-12.5° Beaumé, almost two degrees higher than the regulatory minimum of 10.5°, which will of course require less fortifying spirit.
According to the Consejo Regulador, the harvest is inherently about logistics in which the efficiency of organisation will have both technical and financial consequences. In terms of costs machines are cheaper. Each one does the job of 100 pickers, and other processes are increasingly mechanised. In fact Estévez is only using 40 people for the harvest including truck drivers, machine operators and foremen. It requires only three people to maintain and operate each machine, taking turns during the working night, after which they need to degrease, disinfect and clean the machine ready for the next job. Since they cost 116,000 – 200,000 euros, maintenance of the machines is vital. They are hired, and the price is calculated in function of the area of land they will cover and the weight of grapes they will collect. Meanwhile the hand picking will start at the beginning of next week.
Saturday, 12 August 2017
Pale bright almost silvery gold with light gold glints.
NoseInteresting and fruity notes of geranium, tangerine peel and sappy saline green herbs, camomile tea, with background hints of apple and barely ripe apricot, the Moscatel is notable on the nose but the Palomino is apparent in the background. Slightly unusual yet very attractive and characterful.
PalateFresh and crisp up front with all that tangy herbal fruit and a faint saline note then softens into a very gentle very slightly chalky textured finish with lingering fruit. Very drinkable yet it has a subtle serious side.
CommentsMade by Manzanilla specialists and one of the oldest bodegas (1744) Delgado Zuleta, this Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz contains 85% Palomino and 15% Moscatel. The grapes are from vineyards located near the coast between Sanlúcar (Palomino) and Chipiona (Moscatel). The musts were fermented separately at low temperature in stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged on its lees and allowed to decant naturally before bottling, giving the desired young fresh fruity style and losing the minimum in stabilisation. 18,000 bottles are produced annually. The label shows horse racing on Las Piletas beach, Sanlúcar.
Price4.10 euros, Licores Corredera
Friday, 11 August 2017
Quite a full rosé colour, a sort of light slightly orangey red fading to salmon pink, decent mousse.
NoseGentle, super fresh and attractive with notes of ripe red fruit like pomegranate, redcurrant and strawberry. There is a slightly mineral air and a certain crispness from the Tintilla, and the Palomino also makes itself apparent in a faint apple note.
PalateFresh, fairly crisp and good and dry. It is beautifully balanced and clean which helps drive home those fruit notes, and there is a gentle chalky texture and a mineral hint in the background. Soft ripe red fruits predominate and make it very moreish, and it has very good length.
CommentsYet another winner from Viticultores Alba who are obsessed with their wine being as natural as possible. They don't interfere in anything and take what the vineyard has to give. This charming wine is made from a blend of Palomino (93%) and Tintilla (7%) grown organically in the albariza vineyards of Sanlúcar. It is fermented in a stainless steel tank using natural local yeasts and bottled while still fermenting to retain the sparkle. No SO2 (sulphur dioxide) nor any other additive is used and the wine is as natural as is humanly possible. It is disgorged to order, and this particular bottle was disgorged by hand in October 2016 having spent about 21 months en rima - or completing fermentation in bottle. Only around a thousand bottles were made. Brut Nature means no addition of sugar ("dosage"). With sparkling wines sugar is sometimes added to balance the tartaric and carbonic acidity of the wine (eg Brut Champagne contains between 6 and 12 g/l sugar yet still seems dry). The addition of sugar in Alba wines is completely unnecessary and is never done.
Price27.00 euros, Er Guerrita
Thursday, 10 August 2017
The Palomino grapes are already being picked in what is the earliest harvest anyone can remember, and it looks very unlikely that it will ever again begin in early September as it did before. The harvest has been getting ever earlier thanks to global warming, and recently it has been beginning in the second half of August, but this is unprecedented. Barbadillo began picking in their Gibalbín and Santa Lucía vineyards near Jerez on Monday having begun the pies de cuba at the end of last week. Grapes from the inland vineyards have easily exceeded the minimum sugar levels of 10.5° Beaumé required by the Consejo Regulador – with some reaching 15°. Much of the table wine harvest is already done.
|A harvester drags a container of grapes in Barbadillo's Gibalbin vineyard (foto:MAGonzalez diariodejerez)|
In its last forecast at the end of July, the Consejo predicted a possible increase in yield of 20% over last year, but it is still too early to be sure. Also it should be remembered that last year’s crop was quite small. Quality appears to be exceptional however, certainly better than last year. Grupo Estévez began harvesting last night and will be in full swing by the middle of next week, except for the vineyards at Sanlúcar which always ripen a little later, in about 10 days’ time. Williams & Humbert have begum picking their organic Palomino grapes and expect to begin the main harvest on Monday. For their part, some of the growers for González Byass will begin tonight while GB will begin on their own vineyards on Wednesday, and Fundador are carrying out checks to see how ready their and their suppliers’ grapes are.
Some 80% of the grapes will be harvested mechanically, but is some small vineyards or those with difficult access, hand picking will be necessary. The Cooperative will by contrast be picking 80% of its members’ grapes by hand which will require some 500 people, though they are not expecting to start picking before the end of next week. All the winemakers are in agreement that, even though the harvest is so early, the grapes are of superb quality.
Wednesday, 9 August 2017
AppearanceDark mahogany with copper tones fading through amber to a green tinged rim.
NoseForthcoming and complex, there's a lot happening here. Figs, dates, raisins, traces of oak, even aromatic woods, brown sugar all wrapped up in caramel. Way beyond a normal Cream Sherry and way better and much more interesting.
PalateRich and sweet, with lots of caramel and dried fruits, a hint of walnut, yet the sweetness is beautifully balanced by acidity allowing the intense flavour to come through. There is an attractive texture and no cloying, and the flavours linger for ages. If only all Cream Sherry could be like this.
CommentsThis is the extra special version of the best selling Canasta Cream. Standard Canasta is a blend of roughly 75% Oloroso from the pagos Balbaina and Carrascal and 25% PX, and the blend is made at the sobretablas stage, so the wines are homogenised throughout their ageing before the wine is bottled at about six years of age. This is the same wine, introduced in 2016, with an extra 14 years of solera which have given it considerably more complexity and created an absolute classic in which the sweetness is less accentuated and the Oloroso shines through. Brilliant gently chilled after dinner.
30.95 euros per 50cl, Licores Corredera
Tuesday, 8 August 2017
AppearanceDeep blacky walnut brown fading to amber with bright copper highlights.
NoseLively with quite a lot happening: notes of walnut, oak, fresh pipe tobacco and dried fruits: raisin, fig, quince jelly and perhaps a hint of orange peel. There is a faint background mineral trace I associate with column still spirit which is all but covered by the warmth and breadth and gentle sweetness.
PalateBig, bold and generous, richly flavoured with a noticeable touch of sweetness making it incredibly smooth. There are caramel/toffee notes as well as Oloroso and orange and maybe a hint of nutmeg. No aggressive wood tannins and considerable length.
CommentsThis is the better version of Magno Solera Reserva with an avarage age of five years. It is distilled at the firm's plant in Tomelloso from 100% Airén grapes, mostly in pot stills (holandas) but some column still spirit also forms part of the blend. The American oak ageing butts, which are of course located in El Puerto de Santa Maria, are mostly seasoned with Oloroso, (but there is something else there too) which gives it its distinct full bodied yet very smooth character. The brandy was launched in 2007 as a more affordable Solera Gran Reserva, filling a gap in the range. Alma is the Spanish word for "soul" and mine likes it very much.
Price15 euros, widely available
Monday, 7 August 2017
The existing trend continues with export sales down and domestic sales up. Total sales were 7.2% down with a volume of a little under 15 million litres, as against the same period for 2016 with a volume of over 15.6 million litres, and 2015 with 16.2 million. Exports are down by 13% and amounted to less than 8 million litres while sales on the Spanish market rose by 0.8% with sales of a little over 6.5 million litres.
Spain has now consolidated its place as the largest market, having knocked Britain into second place some time ago, and it is the bodega brands which are selling, while sales of the cheap BOB, which did so much damage to the image of Sherry, are plummeting. The good results in Spain are driven by gastronomy and Sherry’s amazing ability to match any dish, and are encouraging the bodegas to concentrate on quality.
Sherry is slowly shedding the “wine for grannies” image and playing a starring role in the fashionable bars and Sherry Bars which are proliferating in Europe, Asia and America. It is now quality wine which is selling as demonstrated by the falling sales of BOB in its traditional markets. In the UK sales dropped by 13.3% with a volume of 2.7 million litres, in Holland and Germany sales dropped by 16% and 22% respectively with a total volume of just over 3 million litres, as against 3.8 million last year.
The US market dropped by 10% to 573,578 litres and, despite its admiration for Spanish culture, its venenciadores and its Sherry bars, the Asian market remains to be cracked. Sales were very modest; not far over 100,000 litres, but at least they were up, by 2.6%.
Sunday, 6 August 2017
The recently re-established firm of Fernández-Gao has launched a new high quality communion wine which is not only the first such wine with the Denominación de Origen Sherry but also has the approval of the Bishop. The idea was born of the friendship between the parish priest of Algar, Juan Antonio Vital, and the technical director of Fernández-Gao, Juan Carlos Sánchez. The Bishop had contacted the priest about establishing a new parish in Arcos, which naturally would need funding, and Juan Carlos offered to help. Juan Antonio thought up the wine’s name and designed the label, while Juan Carlos created the wine.
The bodega is not producing De Ecclesia for profit, but the parish priest feels the Church could sell the wine at 6-7 euros and has already obtained a domain name for this purpose. Production is unlikely to exceed 10,000 bottles however. Communion wine has traditionally been a fairly low strength basic wine gifted in garrafas to the priests by the bodegas, but not usually specifically made for the purpose. De Ecclesia, in contrast, will be fully bottled and labelled and the arms of the city will adorn the top of the cork. They are so confident in the quality of the wine that they are recommending people to take the host and the wine separately so as to appreciate its flavour.
Saturday, 5 August 2017
The GST is back for its VII edition. This is the world’s largest Sherry tasting outside Jerez and it will take place in London at Level 2 OXO Tower Wharf, Bargehouse Street, London on Monday 11th September. There will be at least 200 wines and over 24 bodegas, in most cases represented by their UK importers. Three masterclasses have been arranged; “Becoming a Sherry Sommelier” by two leading sommeliers, “Pairing Cheese with Sherry” by Susie Atkins and “The Nation’s Favourite Sherries: En Rama and Cream” by Beltrán Domecq.
Bodegas Alonso will be there for the first time as well as Garvey and there is a welcome return of Sandeman. Sherry cocktails will be available along with lots of people who can answer any questions about Sherry. So if you are in the trade, this event is unmissable, and you can book here:http://www.sherry.wine/media-trade/events/great-sherry-tasting-2017
Pale straw gold with brassy gold highlights.
Quite big and complex with all sorts of nuances. There is plenty of flor giving it lots of surface almondy bitterness, hints of olive brine and bread dough, and a noticeable influence of cabezuela giving it an attractive buttery -almost cheesey - seriousness. This is class.
Lots of character, a real demonstration of what flor can do both on the surface of the wine and from the bottom of the butt, all in perfect harmony. This is cracking stuff. Bone dry, bitter, balanced and complex, there is a gentle texture and considerable length. All you should expect of a Fino and more.
Always an excellent Fino, this wine was bottled in April 2017 at at least five years old and is super fresh and super expressive. It speaks volumes about the bodega's location and the skill of oenologist Ana Cabestrero. While it is not bottled en rama, it has not been subjected to excessive stabilisation leaving plenty of flavour, plenty.Price
7.10 euros per half bottle from Licores Corredera
Friday, 4 August 2017
Using the strapline “XECO, a Sherry brand for YOU – not Granny!” three self-confessed “Fino fiends”, Polly, Beanie and Alexa have crowdfunded the launch of a new Fino in ”disruptive packaging”. It is aimed at young people in wine and cocktail bars, and the girls are working with bartenders to develop more cocktails. The wine itself is a four year old Fino sourced from Bodegas Diez Mérito and will be available any day now in the UK from Master of Malt with an RRP of £15.99 - £16.99. The plan is to launch an Amontillado in the autumn and more information can be found at www.xecowines.com
Thursday, 3 August 2017
While Sherry is beginning to make a comeback, Jerez vinegar sales are soaring, registering a 9% increase in first half sales over last year. This is all the more impressive when last year’s sales hit a record of 5 million litres, which was itself an 11% increase on 2015. The biggest market is Spain, closely followed by France and the two countries account for 80% of total sales, with the USA in third place with a spectacular increase of 71%. Sales are largely driven by gastronomy but domestic use also contributes greatly. The recent recession saw sales levels wobble, but they have surged back as Spain’s economy begins to recover. Jerez vinegar is unique, being born of Sherry wine, which has a much longer history than most, and, of course, the solera system. It is also controlled by the Consejo Regulador.
Wednesday, 2 August 2017
AppearanceDelicate, pretty very slightly orangey onion skin pink
NoseAttractive, fresh, tight and delicate yet forthcoming fruity aromas like a fruit salad of blueberries, raspberries and strawberries and, of course, black grapes - and a hint of their texture. Extremely inviting.
PalateSuper fresh and beautifully balanced with gentle, perhaps slightly chalky grapeskin texture, a trace of clean minerality and those delicious berry flavours. The depth of flavour and aroma belies the pale colour as it is made from the mosto yema or free-run juice. Delicious with a long clean finish.
CommentsThis Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz is quite unusual as there are few rosés produced here and fewer still from the Tintilla grape. The organically grown grapes come from the bodega's own albariza vineyards at Hacienda Vistahermosa in the pago Corchuelo. They are hand picked at night for maximum freshness and minimum oxidation and selected both at the vineyard and again at the bodega. They are 100% de-stemmed and given a four hour cold soak. The free-run juice is then fermented at low temperature in a process known as "lagrima" (or tears), giving a delicate but aromatic and tasty wine which is great value.
Price7.20 euros, Licores Corredera
Tuesday, 1 August 2017
Established by a young couple from El Puerto de Santa María, Alejandro Narváez and Rocío Áspera in 2009, this bodega has gone from strength to strength. It started as a passion, became a dream and later a reality, and all the more impressive in the depths of an economic crisis. Alejandro had studied marketing and Rocío had studied business, but their career path changed when Rocío’s father bought the land known as La Finca del Olivar in 2007 and planted a hectare with vines. They made the first wine in 2009 and fell in love with the idea. Alejandro then studied viticulture and oenology gaining further experience in Bordeaux, while Rocío studied viti-viniculture in hot climates and worked for a while at Bodegas Luis Pérez.
|Alejandro & Rocio with their wines standing in front of the tinajas.|
The vineyard is in the pago Balbaina Baja near El Puerto and once belonged to Charles Furlong, British Vice Consul and partner in the long gone Sherry producer Matthiesen Furlong. They have been farming it biodynamically and hold a certificate of organic agriculture for which they had to go through a three year conversion period. Inspectors visit every year to check that no chemicals are being used, and they are not as these two passionately believe that the vineyard should be reflected in the wine, and the better the grapes, the better it is. They now have two further vineyards; in Balbaina Alta between Jerez and Sanlúcar, and another, La Greduela, located four kilometres east of Jerez where they grow four hectares of red grapes. The Balbaina vineyards have albariza soils and La Greduela has more clayey soils which help to emphasise the fruitiness in the wine. A total of eleven hectares are currently planted, though they are not all in production yet.
|(foto: Cristo Garcia)|
Until finance could be raised to construct the bodega, Alejandro and Rocío made the wine using the facilities at Sancha Pérez at Conil before the first Forlong wines were released in February 2014; 2,000 bottles of Petit Forlong red and 1,000 of Forlong Blanco. One approaches the bodega, which is in the middle of the vineyard, down a track lined with mulberry trees, passing the small olive grove. Here, various winemaking techniques are employed including fermentation in steel tanks, barrels and eight tinajas (huge clay jars). Barrel ageing is carried out in a fantastically humid cellar. Innovation and experimentation are bywords here with, for example, Palomino made using the red wine process and aged in ex Oloroso butts, while they are also fermenting in tinajas and experimenting with different periods of oak ageing, and proportions of grape varieties in the blends, not to mention sparkling wine.
The vineyards are planted to Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tintilla, Merlot, Palomino and Pedro Ximenez. Grapes are harvested manually, selected and stored in a cold room at about 4-5 C for 24 hours and destemmed before winemaking commences. Only natural yeasts are used. Crianza takes place in the cellar below the bodega, and is kept to a minimum to allow wines to develop in bottle.
Production has grown from the initial 3,000 bottles to the current 60,000, with seven different wines on the market. A further two wines are made exclusively for the Michelin starred Aponiente restaurant in El Puerto run by Ángel León, one of which is sparkling and called simply Burbujas (Bubbles). Thanks to the quality and innovative style of not only the wines, but also the lovely labels designed by Victoria Cerezo Doello, they have no trouble selling them and nearly all are sold locally, but they would like to grow and sell internationally. Given their varied and proven skills, this should not be a problem, and export success would be well deserved.
El Amigo Imaginario
Address: Carretera Jerez - Rota Km 6, 11500 El Puerto de Santa María, Cadiz.
Telephone: (00 34) 620 211 203 (mobile)
Website: www.bodegadeforlong.com (still in construction)
Visits: would need to be arranged