Sunday 19 August 2012

Bodegas: Hijos de Rainera Perez Marin

This famous Sanlucar bodega founded in 1852 by Don Domingo Perez Marin, who came from Santander was originally at Calle Regina, 49, in the Barrio Bajo, later expanding into a bodega in Calle Banda Playa next to Vinicola Hidalgo. In the early XX century some of the sons of Eduardo Hidalgo Verjano left the family firm to their widowed mother and bought the Perez Marin bodega (now a block of flats). The firm was sold in the 1970s during which time it moved into the bodega in Calle Misericordia in the Barrio Alto and in 1990 it was bought by four ex-Rumasa executives who also bought the growers cooperative of Miraflores, guaranteeing grape supply from 150 hectares of vineyard.

In 2007 "La Guita" as it is known was sold to Grupo Estevez. The firm owns a certain amount of vineyard, but most must is bought in from the local Cooperative Covisan to replenish the 11 scale La Guita solera of nearly 20,000 butts, which are divided between two bodegas. Unusually for a Sherry firm, there are only two products, namely the Manzanilla La Guita and a very fine vinegar.

The older Calle Misericordia bodega in which some La Guita is aged is situated at one of the the highest points of Sanlucar,  so as to best take advantage of the fresh humid breezes. It was originally the most important hospital in Sanlucar, Santa Misericordia, from 1526 till 1589 when it was donated to the order of San Juan de Dios who changed its name to their own. In 1867-8 it was reconstructed as a bodega while retaining the name, which can still be seen on tiles on the wall. Before the arrival of Perez Marin, it was the bodega of Manuel Garcia Monge.



The company has other bodegas; Pago de Miraflores and Pago Sanlucar Viejo (bought 1993 and holding most of the La Guita wine and the bottling line).

The brand name "La Guita" has an amusing history. The founder, Don Domingo, was a stickler for cash on the nail ("guita" in local slang) and the bodega came to be known by that name. More recently the bottle had a piece of string ("guita" in Spanish) attached between the capsule and the label as a form of joke. The brand was first registered in 1908 and was sold as a Manzanilla Pasada but it was changed to a Manzanilla Fina in 1985 as it was felt that it would be more popular - and it was. More recently it was the first Manzanilla to print a bottling date on the back label.

In 1986 Rafael Rivas, capataz (cellar master) of Perez Marin set up a new 15 butt solera of Manzanilla Pasada in the expectation that the wine would be used to bolster or improve La Guita, but this was never needed, and he kept the solera going with tiny sacas (withdrawals) until he retired in 2010 and Equipo Navazos arrived. They were spellbound by this unused solera and bottled some of this wonderful wine with an average age of 15 years (eg La Bota de Manzanilla No. 30 - QV).

Meanwhile La Guita continues to be the most popular Manzanilla in Spain and abroad with sales of nearly 4 million litres annually, especially at the Feria de Sevilla. Here they go to inordinate lengths to ensure the wine is in perfect condition. The brand has a Manzanilla market share of over a quarter so sacas are frequent; every two months.

Contact
Address: calle Misericordia,1, Sanlucar de Barrameda, Cadiz
Tel: (+34) 956 319 564
Web: www.laguita.com or www.grupoestevez.es
Visits by prior appointment

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